2013
APEC Comes to Bali
6 October 2013
Along with all the heads of state of the Asia Pacific region (bar Obama who has too much on his plate at home!), I have descended on Bali this weekend - in my case for a much lesser event than APEC, the Ubud Writers Festival, but one which will engage in a lot more worthy talk than the hot air that APEC is likely to expend.
Bali is all geared up. The new airport terminal is open at last – the building with the vast series of curved roofs that I have watched being built over the last two years, causing such traffic chaos to those arriving and departing from the old building. We actually arrived at the old terminal and walked along endless corridors until one noticed a change in carpet, a ghastly beige brown pattern, indicating that one was in the new terminal. I must say I am terribly disappointed. The Arrivals area is just a huge boring hanger-like structure inside, with not an ounce of charm or beauty. Not a single element that would indicate it is in Bali, one of the most artistic cultures on earth. It does not even have modern architectural innovation like Dubai for example, nor the airiness and light of Makasar's beautiful new airport we went through last year. The principles of this new structure, inside at least, are practicality and efficiency. There was a temporary desk as one entered the hall welcoming APEC visitors, more like a university conference reception area. I am presuming the VIP visitors will not be passing that way as it was all very ad hoc! Maybe it was for the lowly press visitors. Today (Sunday) the airport will be closed to normal traffic most of the day as the heads of state roll in. (Rather than just the heads of state roll, as happened in Oz recently.) Our own ghastly PM will be coming after spending yesterday fawning over royalty at the big Naval Fleet event in Sydney Harbour, where he no doubt thrust his nubile daughters at poor Prince Harry.
However, after this disappointment I was in for a great surprise. I knew there had been big road building projects, but when the taxi driver asked did I want to take the new toll road which would cost all of $1 extra I said, “Sure.” I though he meant the completed new road works that have made the last few years a nightmare in getting away from the airport and onto the road up to Ubud, but somehow I missed knowing about this project, a huge sweeping modern road bridge right across the waters of the bay. It is truly magnificent. I urge you to google “Bali Toll Road YouTube". I was totally taken by surprise. It is a world class project - must have cost billions in foreign investment. And it is certainly going to cause ecological disaster to the bay and its mangrove swamps. The road goes straight from the airport over the water almost to Sanur. Meets the Sanur By-Pass road more than half way along. Cuts out a huge amount of traffic chaos. It is the best value I have had from a dollar in years. Those of you planning to come to Bali, take the toll road! Fabulous scenery across the bay too, a view I have never seen before.
Bali is all geared up. The new airport terminal is open at last – the building with the vast series of curved roofs that I have watched being built over the last two years, causing such traffic chaos to those arriving and departing from the old building. We actually arrived at the old terminal and walked along endless corridors until one noticed a change in carpet, a ghastly beige brown pattern, indicating that one was in the new terminal. I must say I am terribly disappointed. The Arrivals area is just a huge boring hanger-like structure inside, with not an ounce of charm or beauty. Not a single element that would indicate it is in Bali, one of the most artistic cultures on earth. It does not even have modern architectural innovation like Dubai for example, nor the airiness and light of Makasar's beautiful new airport we went through last year. The principles of this new structure, inside at least, are practicality and efficiency. There was a temporary desk as one entered the hall welcoming APEC visitors, more like a university conference reception area. I am presuming the VIP visitors will not be passing that way as it was all very ad hoc! Maybe it was for the lowly press visitors. Today (Sunday) the airport will be closed to normal traffic most of the day as the heads of state roll in. (Rather than just the heads of state roll, as happened in Oz recently.) Our own ghastly PM will be coming after spending yesterday fawning over royalty at the big Naval Fleet event in Sydney Harbour, where he no doubt thrust his nubile daughters at poor Prince Harry.
However, after this disappointment I was in for a great surprise. I knew there had been big road building projects, but when the taxi driver asked did I want to take the new toll road which would cost all of $1 extra I said, “Sure.” I though he meant the completed new road works that have made the last few years a nightmare in getting away from the airport and onto the road up to Ubud, but somehow I missed knowing about this project, a huge sweeping modern road bridge right across the waters of the bay. It is truly magnificent. I urge you to google “Bali Toll Road YouTube". I was totally taken by surprise. It is a world class project - must have cost billions in foreign investment. And it is certainly going to cause ecological disaster to the bay and its mangrove swamps. The road goes straight from the airport over the water almost to Sanur. Meets the Sanur By-Pass road more than half way along. Cuts out a huge amount of traffic chaos. It is the best value I have had from a dollar in years. Those of you planning to come to Bali, take the toll road! Fabulous scenery across the bay too, a view I have never seen before.
I saw myself arriving in Ubud in record time but the gods were not on my side. (Probably because I enjoyed the environmentally disastrous toll road across the bay!!) We struck a traffic jam on the tiny road near Bali Bird Park, about half an hour south of Ubud. Most likely a ceremony taking place in one of the villages ahead. One of the positive things about this overdeveloped tourist island is that religious events take precedence over all else, and road closures for long processions to the temple are allowed to put a halt to traffic. However, if one is caught up in such a delay then it is hard to be patient and applaud the island's devout practices! After half an hour at a total standstill my driver had the good sense to turn around and find an alternative route which was considerably further, but on a clear road. I bet there will be no temple processions allowed once APEC heads are on the roads today! By the way these long-term airport and road projects were stimulated by the fact that APEC was scheduled to be held here. Indonesia likes to put on a good show. Expect lots of Bali exposure on your TV news screens in the coming days. It will be held down at Nusa Dua, the resort area in the tiny "chicken's foot" peninsula at the bottom of the island.
Finally reunited with my son! He is fine - very exited about his new business venture in partnership with a friend, in E-cigarettes, an electronic device to help give up smoking or a healthier option to tarry cigarettes. They import them from China, and so far no one else is doing this in Bali. They have sold most of the first order in a couple of weeks (I have got half my capital investment back!) and they are about to order a new batch. Am bringing a couple home with me for the family's smokers!
Jasmin is away at a sleepover at her friend Lalui's house. Hope to see her today. Ibu Agung was here, unusually for a Saturday, but wants to take her daughter to see the toll road on her motor scooter today, Sunday, her usual morning with us - I hope it is not closed for APEC. I took the opportunity of having her here to sort out the kitchen shelves and give her Josh's excess kitchen stuff and throw out jars and containers. Sadly Josh is going to have to give up this beautiful house when he and Jasmin come home to Sydney in December for six months. When he gets back from California, where he's going on his next visa run and to see Stacey, leaving next Saturday, he is going to have to put the contents of the house in storage and find a new place down south of Ubud, nearer Jasmin's mother's new place and also Jasmin's proposed new school down at the coast. It will be a huge job so I will try to help sort out some of the junk this week before the festival starts.
The rice fields are flourishing, you will be pleased to hear. I will hate to farewell them when I leave, as after this trip it's unlikely I will be back up this northern end of town again.
Finally reunited with my son! He is fine - very exited about his new business venture in partnership with a friend, in E-cigarettes, an electronic device to help give up smoking or a healthier option to tarry cigarettes. They import them from China, and so far no one else is doing this in Bali. They have sold most of the first order in a couple of weeks (I have got half my capital investment back!) and they are about to order a new batch. Am bringing a couple home with me for the family's smokers!
Jasmin is away at a sleepover at her friend Lalui's house. Hope to see her today. Ibu Agung was here, unusually for a Saturday, but wants to take her daughter to see the toll road on her motor scooter today, Sunday, her usual morning with us - I hope it is not closed for APEC. I took the opportunity of having her here to sort out the kitchen shelves and give her Josh's excess kitchen stuff and throw out jars and containers. Sadly Josh is going to have to give up this beautiful house when he and Jasmin come home to Sydney in December for six months. When he gets back from California, where he's going on his next visa run and to see Stacey, leaving next Saturday, he is going to have to put the contents of the house in storage and find a new place down south of Ubud, nearer Jasmin's mother's new place and also Jasmin's proposed new school down at the coast. It will be a huge job so I will try to help sort out some of the junk this week before the festival starts.
The rice fields are flourishing, you will be pleased to hear. I will hate to farewell them when I leave, as after this trip it's unlikely I will be back up this northern end of town again.
The festival does not start till next Friday. Looking forward to it! The tenth anniversary of that first small scale but delightful event back in 2004. It is now world famous!
Next morning Ubud
Jazz will wake any minute, and yes, it IS pancake Tuesday! Becoming a tradition on my first morning with her when I'm here.
Next morning Ubud
Jazz will wake any minute, and yes, it IS pancake Tuesday! Becoming a tradition on my first morning with her when I'm here.