2015
Back to the real world of shopping, dishes and homework!
2 November 2015
Four days of world issues, local issues, fascinating stories, stunning writers, great conversations, snatched or occasionally leisurely meals, new and old friends. Everyone I spoke to was entranced by it all, and ultimately the bans did not stop discussion of the 1965 massacres, rather gave the issue a higher profile than if the session had gone ahead. Hopefully the festival losing its license to continue in future years will not happen, and by next year orders from above to the Balinese regional police and military will prevent them from being so high-handed in future. Or the Balinese way may prevail. Pak Jun said when the military commander came to check up on things he took him out for coffee and took the gently-gently approach. Ketut, Janet's husband, did the same with the Police Chief. Most of the time the police presence was just a crowd of men in uniform smoking and gossiping in the car park and paying no attention to what was going on inside.
Started Day 4 early with the 9am session on sea travel in the archipelago- right up our alley! Of course Seatrekkers Jeffrey and Ian were there. A German guy's book with his research into how Indonesians travel - doh! - by boat, of course - and he had some great slides of the various types of boats he had travelled on. The other guy's was a novel on Wallace - a fictionalised account based on fact. It later turned out he had never been to any of the places Wallace visited in Eastern Indonesia and where Wallace developed his own theory of natural selection. When the speaker seriously mispronounced the name of the island of Ternate without the final acute é as “Ternat”, where Wallace had spent six years (I have been to his supposed house there), I spontaneously (rudely?) yelled out the correct pronunciation - Ter nah tay. He was stunned that in his head over all the years of research into Wallace he had it wrong - and never thought to check. In question time Jeffrey thought it would be a good thing if I let the audience know they too could follow in the footsteps of Wallace with SeaTrek, in comfort and a touch of luxury in a sailing boat like some of those pictured in the talk - the glorious Ombak Putih. I pointed out Jeffrey and Ian as expert guides for SeaTrek and lots of people came up to speak to them afterwards. Maybe Ian even got to sell a few copies of his books in the bookshop.
But by then I had left to spend some time with the three lads whose stories I had translated for the anthology. (The fourth, a girl, is on an overseas scholarship somewhere.) There was no real chance to chat at the launch. They are all very bright and creative, especially the one who wrote imaginatively about the theory of evolution in a story with quite an atheistic viewpoint, one of four mini stories entitled "The God Particles". Most unusual for an Indonesian to question the existence of god! Another had written a story set in wartime Lithuania -"Was Hitler in League with Aliens?" Very clever. Two of them presented me with copies of their books of short stories.
Next session was one on East Timor with the amazing Galuh Wandita again and a panel including a Timorese filmmaker, Francesca Maia and an Australian, Gordon Peake whose novels are set in East Timor. As Francesca said, East Timor has stories to tell that are not just those bound up with the violence suffered there.
At one point part way through this session I suddenly fell apart with exhaustion and rang Josh to collect me so I could go home and rest. A wise move, as when I returned a couple of hours later for the final session I could enjoy the spirited session between Galuh and Mpho Tutu on comparing notes on East Timor’s and South Africa’s Truth Commissions - the successes and failures. (Back in 2004 Indonesia was apparently talking of having one but when one of the clauses was challenged - the victim could not claim for compensation without forgiving the perpetrator first, the court threw out the whole idea of a truth commission. The two way discussion was really stimulating- One an atheist, a cynic with some optimism, the other a committed Christian, a non cynic and hopeful (explaining her understanding of the difference between being optimistic and hopeful.) The discussion got quite philosophical and complex! Mpho was not quite so eloquent as in her keynote address but impressive nevertheless. Galuh was my hero of this festival. A quote after hearing the testimonies of 8000 victims in East Timor: "I feel like I have the weight of 8000 voices on my shoulders". Somehow she manages to be positive and is able to continue the fight for justice. Forgiveness in the truth commissions should not mean justice should not be pursued, especially for those convicted of crimes against humanity. All those tried for serious crimes in East Timor have been given early releases from prison. The worst murderers are living with impunity in West Timor and some even given high-ranking positions in Indonesia's bureaucracy. It all comes back to the issue of impunity which gives criminals the belief that it is ok to go on committing crime.
It was a powerful session to end on. As everyone dispersed I did not get to farewell many friends who were at other venues. Jeffrey and I repaired to a warung and debriefed over a coke. Despite being shattered I went out again in the evening to join Ian and Yusra and Jeffrey for a simple delicious Balinese meal on the roof top restaurant at the losmen (Rumah Roda) where Jeffrey is staying. More festival debriefing and, as always with those two guys, wonderful conversations about history, ancient migrations in this part of the world, sailing Indonesian waters and the direction of the spread of cultures, music and such like. I suddenly realised that I would not be able to have prolonged conversations on such topics with anyone else of my acquaintance.
This morning back on the school run with Jasmin and coffee at Casa Luna where we were joined by Jeffrey and Maritsa and Julie as they came back from the early morning rice field walk he'd taken them on. A chance to say goodbye. Jeffrey is off to the island of Madura and Maritsa to the ashram in Candi Dasa to write. Julie is around for a couple more days then off to Jakarta where her son lives. (I am so glad my son lives in Ubud not Jakarta, but I am sure I'd visit him there if that is where he lived!) Julie came back home with us and we picked Ian up on the way so they could see the house and the rice fields I am constantly raving about. A final chat and cup of tea on the verandah and they too have gone.
Apart from that, a delicious swim with Josh and a load of shopping - that is the sum total of our achievements for the day.
One bit of excitement though - the cat had a snake in the house - a very skinny one about half a metre long. Josh rescued it but it took up residence under a cupboard. Some time later it reappeared and he managed to sweep it outside into the garden. Doubt it was poisonous. When I opened Jasmin's school bag to read the communications booklet there was a message about a talk to all students tomorrow from a snake expert - including what to do if a snake comes into your house!!
Thanks for bearing with me throughout the festival.
It turns out it is not quite all over. I was invited to a special event down in Denpasar, the launch of one of the books which was banned at the festival because its title is Bali 1964 to 2009 which means it covers the year 1965!! It is the story of a NZ woman, Jan Mantjika, who married a Balinese student from a high caste Denpasar family and moved here with him in 1964. I happen to have met her in the street in Denpasar on my first trip here in 1967 - I can't fully recall the circumstances, but noted on subsequent trips that she had founded the first tour company - Jan's Tours - soon after. All these years later we meet again just as she has written her story, published by a woman I know well, Sarita Newson of Saritaksu Editions (another New Zealander married to a Balinese). Sarita's son Kadek Krishna is well known to many of you who attended the early festivals - a marvellous bilingual, bicultural lad who did a lot of the interpreting and MC-ed events with great flair. He did the same for Jan's book last night, along with his mother. He wasn't at this latest festival as he had been in Holland running a South East Asian writers event until a couple of days ago. Got a big hug from him last night which made my day!
It was held in a remarkable venue - another Taman Baca - Reading Garden - a reading room set up to serve the community of those who refuse to let 1965 remain silenced. Full of formerly banned books, left wing literature and books on Bali, mostly in Indonesian. Did not think I would ever see such a shelf of books in Indonesia!!
Started Day 4 early with the 9am session on sea travel in the archipelago- right up our alley! Of course Seatrekkers Jeffrey and Ian were there. A German guy's book with his research into how Indonesians travel - doh! - by boat, of course - and he had some great slides of the various types of boats he had travelled on. The other guy's was a novel on Wallace - a fictionalised account based on fact. It later turned out he had never been to any of the places Wallace visited in Eastern Indonesia and where Wallace developed his own theory of natural selection. When the speaker seriously mispronounced the name of the island of Ternate without the final acute é as “Ternat”, where Wallace had spent six years (I have been to his supposed house there), I spontaneously (rudely?) yelled out the correct pronunciation - Ter nah tay. He was stunned that in his head over all the years of research into Wallace he had it wrong - and never thought to check. In question time Jeffrey thought it would be a good thing if I let the audience know they too could follow in the footsteps of Wallace with SeaTrek, in comfort and a touch of luxury in a sailing boat like some of those pictured in the talk - the glorious Ombak Putih. I pointed out Jeffrey and Ian as expert guides for SeaTrek and lots of people came up to speak to them afterwards. Maybe Ian even got to sell a few copies of his books in the bookshop.
But by then I had left to spend some time with the three lads whose stories I had translated for the anthology. (The fourth, a girl, is on an overseas scholarship somewhere.) There was no real chance to chat at the launch. They are all very bright and creative, especially the one who wrote imaginatively about the theory of evolution in a story with quite an atheistic viewpoint, one of four mini stories entitled "The God Particles". Most unusual for an Indonesian to question the existence of god! Another had written a story set in wartime Lithuania -"Was Hitler in League with Aliens?" Very clever. Two of them presented me with copies of their books of short stories.
Next session was one on East Timor with the amazing Galuh Wandita again and a panel including a Timorese filmmaker, Francesca Maia and an Australian, Gordon Peake whose novels are set in East Timor. As Francesca said, East Timor has stories to tell that are not just those bound up with the violence suffered there.
At one point part way through this session I suddenly fell apart with exhaustion and rang Josh to collect me so I could go home and rest. A wise move, as when I returned a couple of hours later for the final session I could enjoy the spirited session between Galuh and Mpho Tutu on comparing notes on East Timor’s and South Africa’s Truth Commissions - the successes and failures. (Back in 2004 Indonesia was apparently talking of having one but when one of the clauses was challenged - the victim could not claim for compensation without forgiving the perpetrator first, the court threw out the whole idea of a truth commission. The two way discussion was really stimulating- One an atheist, a cynic with some optimism, the other a committed Christian, a non cynic and hopeful (explaining her understanding of the difference between being optimistic and hopeful.) The discussion got quite philosophical and complex! Mpho was not quite so eloquent as in her keynote address but impressive nevertheless. Galuh was my hero of this festival. A quote after hearing the testimonies of 8000 victims in East Timor: "I feel like I have the weight of 8000 voices on my shoulders". Somehow she manages to be positive and is able to continue the fight for justice. Forgiveness in the truth commissions should not mean justice should not be pursued, especially for those convicted of crimes against humanity. All those tried for serious crimes in East Timor have been given early releases from prison. The worst murderers are living with impunity in West Timor and some even given high-ranking positions in Indonesia's bureaucracy. It all comes back to the issue of impunity which gives criminals the belief that it is ok to go on committing crime.
It was a powerful session to end on. As everyone dispersed I did not get to farewell many friends who were at other venues. Jeffrey and I repaired to a warung and debriefed over a coke. Despite being shattered I went out again in the evening to join Ian and Yusra and Jeffrey for a simple delicious Balinese meal on the roof top restaurant at the losmen (Rumah Roda) where Jeffrey is staying. More festival debriefing and, as always with those two guys, wonderful conversations about history, ancient migrations in this part of the world, sailing Indonesian waters and the direction of the spread of cultures, music and such like. I suddenly realised that I would not be able to have prolonged conversations on such topics with anyone else of my acquaintance.
This morning back on the school run with Jasmin and coffee at Casa Luna where we were joined by Jeffrey and Maritsa and Julie as they came back from the early morning rice field walk he'd taken them on. A chance to say goodbye. Jeffrey is off to the island of Madura and Maritsa to the ashram in Candi Dasa to write. Julie is around for a couple more days then off to Jakarta where her son lives. (I am so glad my son lives in Ubud not Jakarta, but I am sure I'd visit him there if that is where he lived!) Julie came back home with us and we picked Ian up on the way so they could see the house and the rice fields I am constantly raving about. A final chat and cup of tea on the verandah and they too have gone.
Apart from that, a delicious swim with Josh and a load of shopping - that is the sum total of our achievements for the day.
One bit of excitement though - the cat had a snake in the house - a very skinny one about half a metre long. Josh rescued it but it took up residence under a cupboard. Some time later it reappeared and he managed to sweep it outside into the garden. Doubt it was poisonous. When I opened Jasmin's school bag to read the communications booklet there was a message about a talk to all students tomorrow from a snake expert - including what to do if a snake comes into your house!!
Thanks for bearing with me throughout the festival.
It turns out it is not quite all over. I was invited to a special event down in Denpasar, the launch of one of the books which was banned at the festival because its title is Bali 1964 to 2009 which means it covers the year 1965!! It is the story of a NZ woman, Jan Mantjika, who married a Balinese student from a high caste Denpasar family and moved here with him in 1964. I happen to have met her in the street in Denpasar on my first trip here in 1967 - I can't fully recall the circumstances, but noted on subsequent trips that she had founded the first tour company - Jan's Tours - soon after. All these years later we meet again just as she has written her story, published by a woman I know well, Sarita Newson of Saritaksu Editions (another New Zealander married to a Balinese). Sarita's son Kadek Krishna is well known to many of you who attended the early festivals - a marvellous bilingual, bicultural lad who did a lot of the interpreting and MC-ed events with great flair. He did the same for Jan's book last night, along with his mother. He wasn't at this latest festival as he had been in Holland running a South East Asian writers event until a couple of days ago. Got a big hug from him last night which made my day!
It was held in a remarkable venue - another Taman Baca - Reading Garden - a reading room set up to serve the community of those who refuse to let 1965 remain silenced. Full of formerly banned books, left wing literature and books on Bali, mostly in Indonesian. Did not think I would ever see such a shelf of books in Indonesia!!
The event was set in a lovely garden with tables and chairs, a little stage, a tiny cafe and a communal vegetable garden. A haven of peace somewhere in or near Denpasar, a horrible noisy city which was a mere village when I first came here in 1967. There was a big crowd of expats and Balinese and the extended families of both Jan and Sarita, with music provided by Jan's five grandchildren.
Lots of Balinese drinks, cakes and nibbles provided by the families. Excellent speeches and a reading by Jan, which Kadek Kris translated into Indonesian directly from the English book, paragraph by paragraph for the Indonesians in the audience. Of course I have a copy of the book. There are in fact three chapters on 1965/66 when the young Jan had to live through the mass killings which took place around her. She and her babies went back to NZ for a time after it was over. Apparently it was harrowing for her to go back over the memories to write the book.
I had a lift down from Ubud by another of Sarita's sons, Komang (3rd born- Kadek = 2nd born) and his gorgeous wife, Onik - they now own and run Bali Eco Bike Tours, with Onik in charge of the fabulous lunch place at the end of the tour. Kadek Kris who manages the family hotel up the mountain at Kintamani overlooking Lake Batur, now provides the breakfasts at the beginning of the bike ride. A true family business. I've done the ride twice some years ago - some of you reading this have done it too!! And remember Cathy’s bike accident in 2011. Got a lift back to Ubud with other people who wanted to leave fairly early so I did not get to hang round to the end. But so pleased I went.